Wout Philippo is an international make up artist and session stylist.
In this article he gives us his tips from backstage on how to get a morning fresh #makeupnomakeup look.
"In my opinion, skin is the most important part of any fresh makeup. Following a good skincare regimen establishes a fresh and luminous base."
Correctly applying a great foundation is also key. I personally love the MAC Face & Body formula, as there is no other formula on the market that is that thin and luminous, yet non greasy.
Step 1. Moisturize
Start of with applying 3 to 5 drops of a plumping serum to assure your skin looks its best. I reach for the Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair. (also perfect for during the day). Massage it in, and follow with a cream of your choice. If you have dry to normal skin, I love to use the Weleda Skinfood. Rub a small dab between your fingers to warm up the cream, and pat it in. For mixed to normal skin, I love Embryolisse lait-creme concentre.
How to Apply Foundation: Using a small dab on your fingers, gently massage the foundation in. The warmth of your fingers helps blend, With a brush or sponge you can't know exactly how much you’re applying. You should use the most product in the center of your face, sheering outward to "next-to-nothing" on the perimeters of your face. Follow with a nice concealer of your choice.
Product Recommendation: For a self-setting, fluid concealer I adore the Estée Lauder Doublewear concealer. For a more creamy consistency I like the MAC Studio Fix concealer. The Estée Lauder has a doe-foot applicator, the MAC one you can apply with your fingers.
***Key areas to pay attention to are under and around the nose, the tip of the nose, between the eyebrows, around your mouth, any pimples or spots, and of course under your eyes. Pro Tip: Make sure not to use too much product under the eyes as this will look "cake-y".
If you have very dark circles, using a color corrector first might help. Use a pinkish one if your circles are more blue, use a more yellowish one if they’re more purple. Don’t be afraid to go back in with your finger to smooth out the product, the warmth of your hand is a secret weapon that many makeup artists use, as it helps blend everything in.
"I am personally not a big fan of using a lot of powder, it is fine to have a little bit of a sheen, I think it makes you look youthful and fresh."
If you want to set your makeup or are exceptionally oily, I can recommend the Dior Nude Air loose powders. It’s best to limit powder to the smile lines, on the nose, under the corners of your mouth, and lightly under the eyes. As for your eyebrows: Always make sure to brush all the hairs up diagonally until all the hairs lay nicely. If you have nice eyebrows, this often is enough. If you need a little bit of filling in, I’m a big fan of the MAC Shape & Shade brow pen. This one has an eyeliner-esque applicator on one side to draw in individual hairs, and a brow-powder formula on the other side. As for eyebrow gel, HEMA has a nice clear eyebrow gel. Eyes: One of my favorite palletes in the world for eyeshadow is the Dior Backstage pallette in 001 Warm Neutral. They’re the perfect balance between creamy and powdery, and are quite forgiving if you make a mistake. How to blend eyeshadow:
Dip into a soft brown color with a soft, fluffy brush for definition. Apply in your crease with small sweeping motions, not applying beyond your eye. Next choose a warmer, light brown color with the same brush. Close your eye and apply this color blending it half under, half over the previous color, keeping enough lid space. Once everything is nice and blended, use your finger to apply one of the lighter skin tone shades to the middle of your eyelid. Depending on your preference, you can use a matte or one with a slight shimmer. For extra definition, use a small angled brush and dip into a darker brown shade, then apply thinly on your lash line between your eyelashes.
"Give some love to your eyelashes!!!"
Use a nice eyelash curler with soft rubber edge to curl your eyelashes, then follow with a mascara of your choice. Maybelline has been killing it lately with their formulas, and is a nice and affordable option. How to apply mascara: in wiggling motions from the root of the lash to the tip for max volume.